The more I tat and teach, the more I learn. Sample was needle tatted with Lizbeth size 10 and Havels size 6 needle. It has not been blocked. 

The above diagram appeared with a question on one of the FaceBook Tatting groups. This edging/insertion pattern is one I have seen many times in older tatting books.  Here is my interpretation for needle tatting this pattern.


Begin at upper left of diagram and going left to right for rings A, B, C , D

Ring A         2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 - 2 turn and tie

Chain  14 – 6 turn and tie join to middle picot of ring A , chain 20 turn & tie

Ring B   2 – 2 – 2 + (to area of chain joined to ring A) 2 – 2 – 2   close and tie. DNRW (Do Not Reverse Work)

Ring C    2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2  close, turn and tie

Chain   14 – 6  Turn and tie off then join to picot on ring C.  chain 6  join to the first chain you made  14    Turn and tie 

Ring D   2 – 2 – 2 + (join to previous chain area where ring C was joined) 2 – 2 – 2 close ring and tie off, DNRW

Ring E   2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2  



Ring E is the same as ring A and begins the sequence of the pattern again.  The chain following ring E will join to the chain beside it.



Notes:   When I first looked at  this pattern diagram,  I thought Lock join for the chain to ring join. I tried this, but in order to have my threads in the proper position  to continue I had to then tie a second shoelace trick. This did not look nice.  I then realized if I tensioned,  reversed and  tied off the chain, a regular join would work and threads would be positioned to continue the chain with the desired curvature.



I am a Front side/backside tatter. Every time I reverse the work, I reverse the order of my double stitches.